WEARING A BUNAD
Eighth of series of articles on Norwegian "folkedrakt"(folk dress) and "bunader" (folk costumes) by Jody Grage Haug, Døtre Av Norge, December 1998.
Wearing a bunad, a festival costume, has many connotations and denotations and is an important event on many levels. A bunad can save a lot of money and decision making. In many places and many circles a bunad is wonderful for any and all special occasions.
One primary focus is appreciation of and homage to your Norwegian heritage in general and to your part of Norway in particular. It is customary to wear a bunad or folkedrakt from an area to which you have a genetic or residential connection. Then you won't have to explain to those who greet you (feeling they've found someone from their region) that you just liked that particular dress.
Your bunad should display good to excellent fabrics and workmanship, fit nicely, and be clean and in good repair. Because you are wearing traditional (or traditionally related) clothing, conservative makeup and hairstyles are suitable. More contemporary additions such as earrings, high heels and nylons are out of place. References to the bunad police are made only partly in jest!
GETTING STARTED
Since a bunad is a festival garment, less ornate traditional dress is more suitable, and practical, for work situations. Everyday cotton or wool costumes, colored and patterned shirts and aprons, and simpler sølje are among the possibilities. Consider getting an everyday (hverdags) dress, which is less expensive and easier to make and care for. If fabrics are carefully chosen and workmanship is excellent, you will have appropriate clothing for traditional events. You may even decide that it fulfills your needs for traditional Norwegian dress. Or you can begin acquiring a festival costume and spend the money and/or take the time necessary to do a really magnificent job.
ACQUIRING & CARE OF BUNAD
There are many avenues for acquisition of a
bunad. Used
bunader are sometimes available through inheritance, gift, or purchase. Traditional clothing is usually made for easy alteration and, since fit is so important, I am always pleased to discuss the possibilities.
Cleaning is a good investment for all used clothing since dirt can cause discoloration and disintegration over time. It is important to specify "short cycle" which is a more moderate procedure. (I recommend Casimir Cleaners at 8811 Roosevelt Way NE, Seattle, Washington. They do the cleaning for the University of Washington Costume and Textile Study Center.)
Linen requires special care because of the absorbency of the fibers and should be laundered by hand after each use in tepid water with a neutral detergent. Chlorine bleach must not be used. Squeeze but don't rub. Rinse in fresh water at least five times since the shirt will yellow unless it is rinsed very thoroughly. Hang to drip dry or roll in a towel before hanging, but do not wring out. Store in a dark place in a fabric sack or towel. Just before the next use, dip fabric in cold water, dry overnight, and iron on cotton setting with a soft fabric underneath for embroidered sections. Steam irons have made it much quicker and easier.
Most bunader are acquired from Norway, either through local relatives or through the Bunad og Folkedrakt Nettverk. It is important to realize that a bunad can be assembled over time. The skirt and bodice may be worn with a plain shirt and simple sølje until further investments of time and/or money are made. In this way, each part is as it should be and the end result is, too. Some festival costumes or portions of costumes can be made from patterns and fabrics available in the United States, while for others purchase in "kit" form or custom made from Norway is necessary.
WHY MAKE ONE
Embroidery on back of hat from a Gudbrandsdal bunad
There are two usual reasons for making a bunad your self. One is a feeling that it is "yours," only if you make it. If you have the necessary skills, this can work quite well for many costumes, especially if one made in Norway is available to use as an example. The other reason is that it saves money. But you may have a hard time actually getting around to it because you want to do it right and you aren't really sure what right is. Because an experienced embroiderer or sewer is faster, you may make about $.50 an hour doing it yourself. Generally paying to have a bunad embroidered or sewn here does not result in savings.
To accumulate money towards purchasing your bunad, remember that the holidays, and birthdays, are coming. Many of us have all the "stuff" we need, so you could let your relatives and friends know that contributions to your Bunad Fund are always welcome. Perhaps you can undertake a special earning project or decrease spending in some other area.