WEARING A BUNAD
Fifth of series of articles on Norwegian "folkedrakt" (folk dress) and "bunader" (folk costumes) by Jody Grage Haug, Døtre Av Norge, February 1998.
Silver was magical in Norway, the stuff of superstition and legend. The mines were thought to belong to the mountain trolls who were the very best silversmiths. Silver was used to protect against storms, heal sickness, make beer work, consecrate water, etc. A small silver brooch was pinned on a baby's clothing so the trolls couldn't make a swap with a troll baby. Silver pieces handed down from previous generations were especially valued because of their ancestral and spiritual connections.
Above halsknapp (neck closure) and a large sølje (brooch) on blouse gives clues to family's wealth and higher social ranking.
The silver jewelry worn by his wife and daughters was an important status symbol for a farmer, as well as a way to store the family's wealth. Many farmers, especially in Setesdal and Telemark, became silver craftsmen to add to their incomes. Pieces could be stamped, cast or cut from sheet silver and embellished with engraving, filigree, etc.
The word "filigree" means thread/wire — ball/grain in Latin and describes silver threads and balls of different sizes and dimensions, soldered and twisted together into a design. Filigree work probably came from the Far East and followed the old trade routes through the Middle East and up through Europe. It first came to Norway in Viking times and was again popular during the Renaissance. In the early 1700's filigree was a basis for the development of many regional folk jewelry designs in Norway.
Guilds of silversmiths date back to 1568 and only guild members could legally work with silver. Guilds provided education for silversmiths and were found only in large towns. Theoretically the government controlled all precious metals and the guilds controlled who could work and where, however, silver work continued in the countryside.
Today machinemade silver is also available. These pieces are either stamped from thin sheets of silver or cast from a mold and may have some handmade parts. They cost about one third the price of handmade pieces and, as with handmade pieces, the quality varies widely. In deciding what to buy - and how much to spend - consider that you will wear a piece for the rest of your life and pass it on to children and grandchildren. It is traditional to collect pieces over a lifetime, rather than purchasing them all at once.
TYPES USED WITH BUNAD
Example of sølje (brooch) which has a mirror surrface hidden beneath's it's cover. This one is open
The usual women's silver includes a neck pin or button which holds the shirt together at the neck, a brooch fastened across the front slit of the shirt (and almost never fastened to the bunad itself!), cufflinks and shoe buckles. Rings, belts and bridal accessories are common, but earrings are not traditional with folk costumes.
The jewelry is quite regional in design, although the boundaries are often vague and inherited pieces are always appropriate. Simpler pieces should be worn with more everyday costumes and in all cases care must be taken not to wear more silver than is appropriate.
Many questions have been raised about the meaning of the elements in Norwegian folk jewelry. There are some symbols whose meanings are universal and ancient, and some elements that have different meanings in different places and times. Basically a silver pin is used to hold the shirt closed, and much of the meaning of the elements has probably changed as appropriate over time. The circle is a universal shape and the prong across the middle is to secure the pin. The rich layers on many pieces are quite intriguing, and the hanging parts glitter and/or tinkle to call attention to the piece.
CARE OF SILVER
Special care is needed to preserve silver.
DO NOT use dip solutions since they destroy the silver. Old silver is supposed to look old; it's called patina. Silver should be washed since the crevices accumulate dirt, and soap and water will do for this. Dampened baking soda, or a mixture of natural soap with a bit of ammonia, used on a soft, worn toothbrush also works well. A silver cloth can be used to rub the leaves and other flat surfaces.
Keep silver in separate boxes so chains and pins don't destroy the delicate work. Do not use rubber bands near your silver as they contain sulphur which can permeate the box and affect the silver contents.
NOTES
Pieces with a prong in the center and no pin on the back should probably not be altered. If they are that old, they may have antique value. The shirt fabric is pulled through the pin's center and the prong goes through the fabric to secure the pin.
Thanks to Hilde Nødtvedt and Lori Talcott who assisted with information for this article.
